My holiday on Islay with two dear friends was a magical experience and I've
got a few memories to share.
We touched down on Sunday evening and were met by our taxi driver Stuart
Doyle who was to be our savior that evening once refreshments had been taken
in some of Islay's hostelries. He drove us to the academy house and we were
met with offers of tea, coffee, beer and whisky so after dropping our things
went outside for a dram of Brichladdich 12 year. The air in Islay is
something else and when you're at bruichladdich it's salty and crisp as you
are virtually on an Atlantic beech in the warehouses you can feel this damp
wind and it must influence the whisky especially after 15 years in cask in
these conditions and I for one believe it does. Whisky is lost through the
porous wood and air enters.
That evening we ate Islay steaks and scallops at the Port Charlotte Hotel
and then went to the ebullient Lochindaal Hotel
http://www.lochindaal.freeserve.co.uk/ and chatted to it's fun barman Iain
Maclellan with a few more drams and beers.
Back at home Dave and I went drunkenly out in the lashing wetness to have an
explore and nearly got lost as the battery in the GPS gave out. It was fun
though and something different. The idea was for a midnight dram beside
Lochindaal and had we known that just by standing outside the distillery
we'd have been in the correct spot things would have been simpler for us.
Monday saw us taking in a well done tour at Laphroaig, a lovely dram of
Lagavulin finished in rich sherry casks offered to us by Kirsten as we
passed by the distillery and then dinner at Ardbeg along with a drop or two
of the local Islay Ale.
We found out that from now on Ardbeg is going to be matured on the mainland,
well a large portion of it anyway because basically LVMH are too tight to
build more warehousing for the stocks. Will this change the taste? Maybe,
but we were told that Islay and mainland stocks would be blended together so
nobody should know the difference. This to me is a disappointing attitude
for a company as rich as LVMH who offer luxury and exclusivity
We then went for a superb tea at the academy house and up above a cliff with
Duncan McGillivray the manager and our academy friends for another very
windswept dram Life couldn't get better. Thanks also on the Monday for
Emma's lift.
The academy was wonderful I won't go in to huge detail as people can find
all this on the web but everyone was amazing. Dave and I were in the thick
of it moving casks, filling, mashing, lobbing in the fruity smelling yeast,
distilling and sniffing spirit with the Budgie and working in the bottling
hall.
I enjoyed the filling with Grant and the crew. We were filling 1998 Laddi
in to Madera drums after it had been vatted in one of the huge tanks. This
will probably go to make up a batch of Bruichladdich Waves a whisky I noted
a month or two ago. It will be interesting to watch this expression over
the next year because it's getting a little older.
We also were able to taste some amazing casks in the warehouses including a
brilliant Macallan aced in a Red Ridge zinfandel cask, a Glenlivvet 1977 and
a sinewy 17 year old Glenfarclas from second fill sherry which for me made
time stand still in the damp and lovely smelling building.
Thursday was the day of truth and it was decided between Dave and I that we
would purchase a cask of Bruichladdich spirit aged in first fill bourbon
from the buffalo Trace distillery in the USA. Its cask 1066 from 2007 and
was looking and smelling lovely as we fondly patted its wooden rump. Jim
McEwan had personally selected this cask for us but may have bashed in the
bung a little too hard as Duncan managed to brake the little wooden critter
in two as he extracted it for Dave and I to pay homage to the spirit so we
now have half each. Phil Dave and I then went to a top secret
installation and tried some extremely peaty Bruichladdich called Octomore,
with Duncan the distillery manager. These warehouses were up on a hill in
Port Charlotte and very old. Jaid had a wale of a time scampering around
the sellers snuffling and sniffling.
Everyone passed the exam at the end even Jaid who received a doggy
certificate. It must be said that on the last night we really did have a
drammy or two.
We were looked after like royalty by everyone at the distillery from Mary
and Rae in the accommodation to the manager who made sure that everyone had
a time to remember. We must have put on at least half a stone with the
beautifully cooked grub and the standard was exceptional. I can still taste
the whisky cream.
Friday saw our friends going home but one remained and kindly took us over
to Jura in his car. The Ireland was really windswept and cold. The
distillery tour was a little impersonal but the tour guides had fetched out
some models of the stills for Dave and I to look at which was thoughtful.
Our venison burgers and Murphy's after the tour set us up for a brilliant
tour of Bunnahabhain distillery in the afternoon and for me this was the
best tour of the week. John the manager was such a nice chap and our drams
of this under-rated malt tasted perfect after the experience.
Friday night was another cracker with Mark Reynier and Simon Coughlin two
of the owners from Bruichladdich having a pint or two and some animated
discussion with us in the Port Charlotte Hotel. We then ate a beautiful
Rogan and went to meet up with Grant from the Bruichladdich warehouses for
some pints and Drams. This was another highlight for me as he had asked us
out for a drink at the Lochindaal Hotel and is a genuine gentle giant of a
man.
With wringing heads we boarded the twin prop on Saturday and headed home.
Clare and I will be on Islay next year. Philip also has a cask of Aaron
going over to the distillery soon so would love to make it's acquaintance.
Pictures may be found on Dave's FaceBook pages at
http://www.facebook.com/p/Dave_Williams/780216527
Labels: general, travel, whisky